Twenty8Twelve SS11

Inspired by Joni Mitchell's album Don Juan's Reckless Daughter, with a road trip theme. Sienna and Savannah Miller mix denim, suede and lace with bright yellows and prints to give a cute vintage feel. I particularly love this girly neutral dress and layering of denim and print.

MOSCHINO!

Whilst researching Moschino for a uni presentation I discovered these amazing cushions in the shape of pastries, which can be found at the Maison Moschino Hotel in Milan. I want one!!

Bunmi Koko SS11 'Matriarchy' Collection

I have just finished a 5 day placement with a new design company called Bunmi Koko Ltd to help in the run up to designer Bunmi Olaye's Vauxhall Fashion Scout show. It has been such a good experience to work with such a new and small business and it was very hands on.

The 13 piece collection was based on Nigeria, in particular the royalty link between the UK and Nigeria, but also the masquerade and 'Ekpe' which are sacred symbols. A man wearing a masqerade costume comes into view and performs a dance which sets the mood, followed by the models wearing amazing printed dresses, skirts, jumpsuits, blouses and jackets, sleek and beautifully draped in shades of black, bright red and yellow. The models were all styled with theatrical feathered masks and canes which added to the theme.

Soooo overall....

I still have 2 weeks left but so far I am really enjoying my time at French Connection and it isn't anything like how I thought it would be considering French Connection is classed as a high street shop. The work like high end designers however they are under more pressure and therefore especially towards the end of designing S/S 11 there are lots of things to do.

The designers seem to take inspiration from anything, there isn't a particular direction, which I found quite odd. They look at designer trends but different designs use different elements, however the collection looks very youthful as head designer Emma has the last say, and chooses more commercial looks rather than the design she likes the most, they also asked me a lot whether I would wear the designs.

I have learnt a lot about fabrics from listening and watching them choose particular fabrics to do particular jobs and also I have done a lot to do with prints which I have found really interesting.

In the time have been been working there a total of 8 designers have designed, chosen fabrics and artworks, fitted toiles and done spec sheets for everything and next week will e checking up on the factories in India, Hong Kong and Turkey, which just shows how fast they have worked.

When all the designers come back I will be helping to put outfits together for the show at the end of may and dressing the models. It will be so good to see everything that I have helped with!!

DAY 31 & 32

Both of these days were spent sewing the buttons on more garments, including shorts, skirts and shirts which hadn't been done at the factory. I had to neaten up the working drawings for all of the stylesin the collection as they had been scanned in from a hand drawing rather than on illustrator.

I also did a few more artwork placements for a style called georgie silk, Gemma voile and a vintage looking embroidery. All of them had to be finished by friday so Emma, the main designer, could take them and all the patterns to India when she arrives on Sunday.

Below are some of the patterns and artworks:

DAy 30

This morning was quite quiet, i finished some artwork for a leather dress which has decorative holes punched into it, then I did some emailing to factories.

In the afternoon I had to sew lots of buttons of jackets and coats which hadn't been sewn on by the factory.

DAY 29

I spent most of the day doing more artwork placements on garment patterns. One of them was an embellishment called 'Pick and Mix' and is really brightly coloured which I arranged as a motif on the front of a light pretty dress. Another one was called 'Gemma Voile' named after me! I had to arrange the floral embroidery on a thin white summery top, which I really want when it goes into the shops!

I helped one of the designers pack all of her stuff up to go to Hong Kong tonight, including all the designs and stationary she might need. I also sent out some emails to inform the factories of style changes, send more spec sheets and inform o the flights the designers are going out on.

DAY 28

Main designer Emma wasn't in on friday so I had to help Lyndsey get ready some last minute vinatge garments to be sent to the factories for embroidery and embellishment stike-offs. I had to photograph every detail of each one, name them and set up sheets to inform the factories exactly what we wanted to be done with each one. This took a while as it took ages to print out all the photos! I then put all the original garments and development sheets in the courier.

The vintage garments were really pretty and included some baby dresses which were cute and going to be used to design womenswear.

Nancy (jersey designer) is off to Turkey on monday so so I had to do a lot of scanning and photocopying for her so she had copies of everything she had sent out to the factories. I also emailed more spec sheets to factories in hope that mock ups will be made by the time the designers arrive at the end of next week.

DAY 27

Leah is now away until next wednesday so I have taken over as design assistant!

I got to do another embellishment placement on a dress called Cleo's Dream. After photocopying the artwork I placed the beading around the neckline, armhole and pockets. It was good as I got to arrange the beads however I wanted, I now really want the dress when it has been manufactured!!!

I emailed factories with sample enquieries and sent them more spec sheets. I also did some more research for the next season.

The head designer went off for a meeting with a lady from a vinatge shop and came back with some really nice inspiring garments for shape and print ideas for next season. Although the garments as a whole weren't suitable for the company, Emma and Lyndsey have lots of good ideas from the items which Im sure will make a really nice collection.

DAY 26

Stressful day!! There was so much to do today as all the designers were stressed out and I got given a lot of jobs to do to help them out!

I got to do an embelishment placemnet on a dress, I had to photocopy the beading, cut out sections and arrange it around the neckline and cuffs on the pattern paper. I enjoyed doing it as although I was told basically what the designers wanted I got to place the beads how I wanted. I will be doing a lot more embellishment placemnets on the patterns next week as the design assistant is away, so it all down to me!

I had to photocopy images from a chinese designer book as part of the inspiration for the designers for nexts seasons collection. I also had to scan in more spec sheets to factories and email the factories whenever the designers needed me to (the designers shout out randomly when a factory needs to be told something....and then me or Leah email them!)

DAY 25

I got to go in the sewing room today and it was smaller than I thought it would be as there are only 7 sewing machines and a small pattern table. I had to steam a rail of menswear garments for the show, which was hard work epsecially as the steamer was really heavy!! When the toiles were being made all the details (stitching, buttons etc) where drawn on in pen which made it easier to imagine how the real garment would look.

I did some more research and printed off images of designer Rebecca Moses work and the model Lara Stone for one of the designers. I had to create some more final colourways for a print, scan specs to the factories, email factories about garment styles and fabrics and organise all the farics that aren't being used this season in to files.

Overall quite a productive day!

DAY 24

There was hardly anything to do today. I scanned in spec sheets and emailed them to the factories, then spent the rest of the day researching for next season and looking into 2 new designers.

DAY 23

I had a really busy day, which is good! I have spent the day helping the kidwear designers doing working drawing on illustrator for the FC Baby range. As well as doing some new designs I had to alter existing ones ready for the final collection to be sent off at the end of the day. Most of the range had a spotted or striped print which I had created last week and on the front sheets for each design I had to draw the prints on, which took a while. It was good to learn about something different to womenswear!

Before I left I scanned in an emailed some more spec sheets to the factories so they could start on the garments next week.

DAY 22

This morning I had to cut out some pattern pieces for a dress and top that had been generated on computer in the studio. I did a lot of emailing of more spec sheets to the factories and some working drawings of some final designs that needed to be pattern cut. Other than this and some general errands there wasn't much else that needed to be done today.

DAY 21

I spent the morning looking through yarn samples for the knitwear, I got to see hundreds of yarns in different colours and styles and had to pick out suitable ones with sequins for 2 particular designs. It was interesting to see how creative knitwear can be, as I have never really looked into it much before.

I did some more research for next season, emailed factories to order yarns and samples as well as sending them more spec sheets, and other general errands (mainly making tea.....im an expert at it now!)

DAY 20

I got to go throught their collection of Vogue magazines which went right back to 1974! It was really interesting looking through at the clothing as well as the layout and content. I began researching for their next collection which will be High S/S 11, and just photocopied things that would be suitable, as well as images that I found inspirational for my own research.

A new delivery of pantone colours arrived today so I had to send them off to the factories so they have a record of the colours being used and keep the rest on file.

I also created some different variations of a spotted pattern on illustrator for kidswear, and emailed more spec sheets off to the factories in Hong Kong and Turkey.

DAY 19

It has been slow again, as none of the couriers are flying out to the factories so me aren't recieving any samples. I had to do some scanning of spec sheets, and help the knitwear designer complete the spec sheets by acting like a model for her to get the right measurements!! I spent the afternoon creating striped patterns of different widths and colourways on illustrator for the kidswear collection.

DAY 18

On friday I went to a meeting and got to look through all the designs, while the head designer confirmed fabrics colours and the colourways for prints. Everything has been so manic in the studio but seeing all the designs and fabrics together made things complete. I then changed the colours of the prints and embellishments according to what Emma had decided.

DAY 17

This morning was quite but by this afternoon I was very busy as one of the designers is off to a factory in Hong Kong at the weekend so a lot of things needed to be done.

• Photocopying design front sheets and spec sheets
• going through designs and sorting out the factories they are being sent to
• doing more colourways for prints and embellishments
• emailing spec sheets to the factories for garments to be made up

Below are the design front sheets with working drawing and fabrics on each one and ordered into 3 packs.
Below are some of the colourways I have been working on, laid out ready to be chosen:

DAY 16

I have finally taken a photo of the building and the studio after after working here for nearly 4 weeks!!

Below is the studio that I work in, it's a very creative atmosphere as there are images, fabrics, prints and designs everywhere.

I made some more colourways for prints and I did some graphics colourways for some last season styles for the buyers.

I also had to order stationary for the office, emailed off spec sheets to the factories for knitwear and tidy some of the work spaces as it was rather messy.

I got to see toiles being made up and the designers discussing adjustments and fittings.

DAY 15

Work was slow again today, the designers were finishing off their final designs and starting to do the spec sheets which began I began emailing to factories.

I spend a lot of the day tidying the studio, but I got to see a lot of past garments which was interesting. I made up some more colourways for several prints, which need to be chosen within the next few days so the colours can be mixed.

Other than this the day has been fairly quiet...

DAY 14

Today has been fairly quiet as we are in the process of waiting for strike offs to come back from the factories.

I made up some more colour ways for some different prints, which I am finding quite fun. I think my new knowledge on prints will help a lot in the 3rd year as it isn't something I have really considered before.

I also sent some more print and colour samples to factories and emailed the factories to change colours of fabrics and prints.

I am hoping that tomorrow is a little bit busier!

This is the ad campaign for French connection Women S/S 10, it ties in so well with the FC man however possibly more striking and memorable.

DAY 13

Friday was a good day and I learnt some things about photoshop that I hadn't used before.

I had to photocopy all the working drawings of the designs, all the prints being used and get a sample of all the fabrics to be sent off to Kurt Geiger in order for the shoes to be designed and made.

I spent the afternoon producing colourways for prints. I had to scan in part of a print, put each colour that appeared in the print onto a seperate layer and then change the colours on each layer to colours in the chosen colour palettes. I had to do about 20 different colour combinations for each print in order for the designers to choose the final colours.

I keep seeing this advert as I walk into the studio each morning and I think it is a really strong image. It very directly targets their customer through the choice of model and the text stands out, I really like it.

DAY 12

Slightly calmer than yesterday...

• finished making colour palette cards for all the staff
• Organised more prints, named them and sent them off to India
• drew some more working drawings for some knitwear garments
• added some new colours to the colour palettes

I was lucky enough to get given lots of spare fabric that had been used in last seasons collection, including denims, silks and cottons.

DAY 11

Busy busy busy..

• doing working drawings of designs by hand
• sending colour swatches to factories abroad (Turkey, Portugal, Hong Kong and India)
• sending out more prints and information about print colours/scale etc.
• scanning and sending embellishment ideas by email to factories
• colour break downs for prints
• passing working drawings between the designers and production team, then organising in file
• more general errands

I found out that the main designers are lucky enough to go to the countries where the French Connection factories are next week, to check up on the garments being made and make sure they are up to scratch...... if only I could go with them!!

DAY 10

So after a long weekend off it was back to work and it was extremely busy as the design deadline draws closer

• making print colour break downs
• scanning and emailing embroidery and embellishment samples to comapanies
• sending prints and details to factories
• putting final patterns in repeat
• filling out forms for knitwear samples to be sent to factories
• Other random jobs for the designers (including the lunch run)

..........overall a very productive day.

Day 9

• photocopied prints and embellishments and fitted them together in a repeat print
• colour matched a new colour palette with pantone colours
• ordered colours from a company
• helped fill out print sheets and get prints sorted to send off to companies for screens to be made
• filling out forms for knits to be sent off to companies to be made
• organising toiled garments into a file

DAY 8

I've had a really interesting day. It started off slowly and I was sorting out files of designs from as far back as 1997, which was good to see how the clothing has developed over the years. In the afternoon I helped 2 of the designers choose the fabrics that were going to be used for each garment in the collection and I also attended a print meeting and helped choose some more print designs.

DAY 7

I continued with making up colour palettes and compared print samples from the factory with past garments in the buyers studio. I also organised working drawings of garments being toiled and organised their fast pack file with all the working drawings of all the garments designed between 2005 and now.

DAY 6

Today I sent lots of emails to companys with images of knitwear techniques they wanted to use. I organised working drawings into a file. I also colour matched the three different colour palettes and started cutting up the colours and using velcro to attached them to the palette for all the designers to use for their designs.

DAY 5

Yesterday was extremely busy as a lot of prints and sample fabrics had to be sent to factories abroad. I continued filling out knit fabric information sheets, as well as colour matching the colour palettes for the 3 themed collections. I was able to attend a print meeting, in which 2 people from a print company came to show their print designs and the prints were then finally chosen. I also had to put chosen prints into a repeat pattern so that we had a copy when the originals were sent out to make print screens.

DAY 4

Today has been spent photocopying more prints and working drawings, as I did yesterday. I have also been filling out fabric forms, which give details of individual fabrics being used in the garments, the colours they are needed in, compositions and the factory. It was good to see the fabrics and knits being used in the collection. I also started using the comapany email and sending out emails to factories with querys on the fabrics and garments.
To end the day, I went to a sample sale of last seasons clothing which was in the building.

DAY 3

Today has been very slow as I haven't had much to do. I did some colour matching of fabrics to pantone colour charts and lots of photocopying of specification sheets and working drawings. I also continued with a print design I had been doing yesterday, I had to try and put the pattern in repeat, however it was more difficult than I thought as the print was quite complex. I got involved slightly with kidswear which was interesting, as I had do research to find accessories for styling.

DAY 2

I continued with several more print designs today, which was good but quite time consuming, as the prints had to be perfect and in a repeat pattern in order to send off to the factory for printing screens to be made. I did a lot of photocopying of prints to be kept on file, as well as photographing vintage clothing for shape, stlye and print inspiration for the collection. It was good to see where the designs began. I also got to observe two members of the design team choose and discuss fabrics, as well as seeing toiles for some of the first designs on a model. The more I watch what everyone is doing around me, the more I am starting to learn about the way the company works...

DAY 1

After battling with rush hour at 8.00 this morning I arrived at French connections head office and was shown around by my mentor Leah. I was surprised at how big the building was, as there were departments for womenswear, menwear, kidswear, knitwear and denim, as well as marketing/promotion and production. French Connection are a week into designing their Spring/Summer 2011 collection so it was exciting to see all of their ideas.

I spent most of the day scanning in prints and manipulating them by hand and using photoshop to create new prints, one of which is confirmed to be used in the collection, which was quite exciting. I also organised specification sheets and colour charts for the collection, and scanned in information to be sent to their overseas factories. I wonder what tomorrow will bring ....

FRENCH CONNECTION

For the next 9 weeks I'm going to be doing a work placement at French connection in the womenswear design department in Camden and recording my experiences on here. so here goes .....

illustration time....

This is the illustration of the outfit I am making, created using collage, hand drawing and photoshop

Construction.........

I'm currently in the process of making an outfit and have one week to complete it! aahhhh....

Jersey inspired by Surrealism

Photoshoot of my menswear jersey project. I really like the shape and how it can be worn in several ways.....

Military teddy...

This is a jacket I made for a recent tailoring project, inspired by Teddy Boys and military clothing

Pretty...

Walking home from uni and took this random photo. I really like the mood of it

Contour

I have been learning how to create contour garments on the stand today and I love it! I think I'm going to have to make a dress for myself. Here are the seams of a Versace dress and the pattern pieces in progress ....

Ayers rock

Just got a new draping and contour project which I am looking forward to and I'm feeling quite inspired by this image of ayers rock ....

Here goes ...........something!

I have never started a blog before but I think it could be interesting so here goes ......